Europe Provence

Le Vivier Restaurant Review (*) Provence (2019)

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HALF-BREWED!

Le Vivier is located at the town L’Isle-Sur-la-Sorgue, Provence. The restaurant opened its doors in 2005 and awarded with a Michelin star. Being in France, it was one of the restaurants that Michelin was generous to award with a star.

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Ambiance

Le Vivier has the Sorgue river view with an alluring terrace for dining. Unfortunately, the experience wasn’t as charming as the terrace itself. It was impossible to dine on the terrace with all the dead flies on the table, mosquitos buzzing in search of blood, and many other flies taking a tour around me and my meal. I had to leave the magical view and sit inside a gloomy atmosphere with no other guests. The other guests were still trying to do their best to avoid the situation. Sadly, I had no intention to spend three uncomfortable hours.

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Taste

I decided to have the “Menu Gourmand” with slight changes since I don’t eat the foie gras they offered. The experience started out with unique and promising amuse-bouche. Spicy chocolate tomato tarte housed one of my favorite flavors; the anise. Bread with cummin served with olive oil was likewise original. I’m not sure that I enjoyed it, but it had a bold taste.

Next amuse-bouche was squid ink bites with lemongrass. The acidity of the lemongrass worked harmoniously with the squid ink. Pork belly with spicy basil oil and crispy rice was another beloved dish. The crunchy texture of the rice was playful and savory.

Crab with tomatoes, burrata and yuzu dressing was a complicated fusion. The dish was too complex to be a single course. Each piece tasted satisfying alone but it was way too sophisticated altogether. At this point, I recalled a phrase that I love; “Simplicity is the ultimate sophistication.”

Octopus with courgette and pepper sauce was poorly cooked. The octopus was overkilled, being no longer tender. Arctic char (a river fish) with meadow mushrooms, onion, smoked bacon and polenta with parsley jus was a delight. Though I’m not a big fan of river fish, this one was sensational.

Grilled veal loin with lovage, celeriac, hazelnut and kumquat was way too much at this point. It was a mediocre dish. I had no place left for desserts since the courses were not modestly portioned.

Before the dessert, there was a classic French cheese course. With a selection of farmhouse cheese, lavender honey was served. I was long expecting to see lavender at a tasting menu as the characteristic of the Provence region. Lavender honey was worth waiting for.

Black lime sorbet with pine kernels and the curry was refreshing, yet it felt like a dessert course. Dark chocolate with coffee, stout and buckwheat was served for dessert. I had to force myself to taste it. It was a heavy finish. The tasting menu experience at Le Vivier was underwhelming.

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Creativity

Presentation of the dishes was charming, unlike their taste. The design of the plates was premium. I wish the tastes were as assertive.

Service

The pace of the service was extremely slow. Dishes stayed at the table for a long time after being finished. Staff should track the customers and attentively coordinate with the kitchen.

We were four people and two dishes were served at once. Hence, we had to wait for the other dishes to arrive from the kitchen. To avoid keeping the guests waiting, other dishes can be brought on a tray even if there isn’t enough staff to serve four people at the same time.

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Value

Unfortunately, Le Vivier was my least favorite restaurant among the ones I have dined in the Provence region. I was really excited about the experience, but rather disappointed at the end, especially when it became a torture to dine at the terrace. Michelin can be biased for the restaurants in France.

Suggested wines were subpar.